The color of gold: the purer, the deeper

Recently, I received a lovely question from a customer: why does the gold in my jewelry have such a warm, deep color? I’m happy to share the answer, as it tells you exactly what is in the metal.

The short answer: the purer the gold, the deeper the yellow color. My jewelry is made with 24-karat gold, the purest form there is, and that gives it its rich, natural luster. Lower-karat gold, such as 18 or 14 karat, is mixed with other metals and therefore looks lighter.

In this blog, I explain how that works, what the difference is between 24, 18, and 14 karat, and why my gold jewelry is made of 925 sterling silver with a layer of 24-karat gold.

In short: 24-karat gold consists of 99.9% pure gold. That purity gives it its deep, warm color. A lower karat means a different alloy, not lower quality.

What does 24-karat gold mean?

Karat is the measure of the gold content in a piece of jewelry. The scale goes up to 24. At 24 karat, the metal consists almost entirely of gold: 999 out of 1000 parts, or 99.9%. At 18 karat, that is 18 out of 24 parts (75%), at 14 karat, 14 out of 24 parts (58.5%).

Note the difference with karat in gemstones. With diamonds and other stones, karat refers to weight. With gold, it refers to purity.

Why is pure gold so yellow?

That is the natural color of the metal. Gold absorbs some of the blue light and reflects the rest, and that is what you see as warm yellow. Nothing is colored or added to it. Gold also does not rust or oxidize, so the color of pure gold remains just as it is.

As soon as other metals are added, that changes.

Why are 18- and 14-karat pieces of jewelry lighter in color?

Pure gold is soft. A ring made of solid 24-karat gold bends and scratches easily. That is why jewelers mix gold with other metals, such as silver, copper, or palladium. That makes it stronger, and it changes the color. More copper gives a warmer, reddish tint, which is how rose gold is created. More silver or palladium gives a lighter, cooler tint, such as with white gold.

The same applies to yellow gold: the smaller the proportion of gold, the less deep the yellow.

24-karat gold-plated: what exactly is that?

Gold-plated means that there is a layer of gold on another metal. With my gold jewelry, that is 925 sterling silver with a layer of 24-karat gold. On the outside, you therefore see pure gold, with the deep yellow color that goes with it. The silver underneath gives the jewelry its shape and sturdiness. In the jewelry world, this is also known as vermeil.

I am honest about it: a layer of gold is not solid gold. Solid 24-karat gold is soft and very expensive. Solid 14 or 18-karat gold is sturdy, but then you pay much more and the color is lighter. I choose the combination: the color of pure gold, in a piece of jewelry that you can simply wear.

The thickness of that layer also makes a difference, and I choose it per piece of jewelry. Earrings wear 1 micron of 24-karat gold, which is enough for jewelry that experiences little friction. Rings, necklaces, and bracelets get a layer of 2.5 to 3 microns. They are closer to your skin, clothing, and each other, and therefore deserve a thicker layer to retain their color longer.

You can see it in the gold necklaces, such as the Maeve necklace with round link.

Three misconceptions about the color of gold

Yellow gold is less real. It is actually the other way around. A deeper yellow usually means a higher gold content. Paler gold is not fake; it is a different alloy.

Gold-colored is the same as gold. No. Terms like gold-colored, gold look, or gold tone say nothing about the gold content. Anything could be underneath. Therefore, look at what is actually stated: how many karats, and what metal is underneath?

A higher karat is always better. That depends. Purer gold is deeper in color, but also softer. For a piece of jewelry that you wear often, strength and maintenance also count. Better is what suits how you wear it.

Which gold color suits you?

There is no rule, but there are a few guidelines. Deep yellow gold often looks beautiful with a warm skin tone and warm colors such as camel, olive green, and terracotta. Lighter gold tones and silver are often chosen for a cool skin tone. But contrast can also be beautiful, and you can wear gold and silver together.

An easy test: hold the jewelry up to your neck in the daylight and look at your face, not at the jewelry. Does your skin look fresher? Then you have made the right choice.

Want to know which jewelry suits your color season? You can find that on the page Shop by color season.

The stone in a piece of jewelry also plays a role. A blue stone against yellow gold often provides more contrast than a warm stone such as citrine or smoky quartz. Take a look at the Flore flowercup earrings in gold, with different gemstones next to each other.

How to keep the gold color beautiful

As with any gold-plated jewelry, the gold layer wears down over time, especially with a lot of friction. A few habits will keep the color beautiful longer:

• Take off your jewelry when sleeping, showering, swimming, and exercising.
• Apply perfume, body lotion, and hairspray first, and your jewelry only after that.
• Store your jewelry separately in the box so that they do not rub against each other.
• Occasionally polish gently with the polishing cloth that comes with your order.

Frequently asked questions about the color of gold

What is the difference between 24-karat and 14-karat gold? 24-karat gold is pure (99.9%), deep yellow, and soft. 14-karat gold consists of 58.5% gold and is mixed with other metals. Therefore, it is sturdier and lighter in color.

Is pale gold not real? It is. Lighter gold is usually an alloy with less gold, such as 14 karat or white gold. It is real gold, just with a lower gold content.

Can gold change color? Pure gold does not. The color of a layer of gold can change due to wear, or contact with soap, perfume, and sweat.

Is gold-plated the same as vermeil? Vermeil is the term for a layer of gold on sterling silver. The requirements for that name vary by country. My jewelry is 925 sterling silver with a layer of 24-karat gold.

Take a different look at your jewelry box

The yellow color of my jewelry is what gold does naturally when it is pure enough: warm, deep, and bright. And once you know that, you might also look differently at the jewelry you already have. If it says 14 or 18 karat somewhere, you will know why that color is just a little lighter.

Do you also have a question about my jewelry or materials? Feel free to send me a message. A question like that is exactly what this blog started with.

Love, Imme